Recipe: Veal chops with aligot
A recipe and wine match from Daring pairings by Evan Goldstein
This dish is unusual in that you use white wine as the liquid in the mashed potatoes. If you like cheese fondue, you will love this dish. It is rich and bright in flavor and goes well with marsanne.
This recipe is a classic, and classic is good. These potatoes are about as perfect a vehicle for showing off marsanne as you can get. Like the wine, they have rich texture, but they don’t overwhelm. The natural acidity of the wine used in the dish is balanced, regardless of what type of wine you cook with, and the cheese is mild enough not to steal the stage. The veal is a great match for the wine as well, rich and flavorful but not overpowering. I bet you’ll cook this combination again and again.
Veal Chops with Aligot
Philippe Jeanty – Bistro Jeanty, Yountville, California
Makes 4 main-course servings
4 veal chops, 1 inch thick (see note)
Three quarters of a cup olive oil
4 fresh sage sprigs
4 fresh thyme sprigs
4 cloves garlic, crushed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups mashed cooked potatoes (see note)
1 cup grated Cantal or tomme cheese
Quarter cup marsanne or other dry white wine
Half clove garlic, finely chopped
Place the veal chops in a shallow glass baking dish. Coat them well on both sides with half a cup of the olive oil. Press a sage and a thyme sprig and a garlic clove into each chop. Cover and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove the chops from the refrigerator, and remove the garlic and herbs and discard. Season the chops on both sides with salt and pepper.
In an ovenproof, nonstick skillet large enough to accommodate the chops without crowding, heat the remaining quarter cup of olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, place the chops in the pan and add the butter. Cook the chops, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 3 minutes on each side. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast for about 10 minutes for medium. Transfer the chops to a rack, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for a few minutes before serving.
When you put the chops in the skillet, begin making the aligot. Place the potatoes in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the cheese and stir with a wooden spoon until the cheese melts and potatoes are the consistency of cheese fondue, about 5 minutes if the potatoes were warm when they were added to the pan, or 10 to 15 minutes if they were cold.
Add the wine and garlic and cook, stirring, until the potatoes have a good elasticity, a few minutes longer.
Divide the potatoes evenly among 4 warmed plates. Place the chops atop the potatoes and serve at once.
NOTE Traditionally, the potatoes for this fonduelike preparation from the Auvergne are cooked in butter, but the home cook can use a favorite mashed potatoes recipe, made with Kennebec or russet potatoes, and yield an excellent result. Be sure the potatoes are mashed perfectly smooth for this dish. You can adjust the amount of cheese, increasing or decreasing it depending on your taste. Also, you can substitute 1-inch-thick pork chops for the veal chops. You can dress up the veal or pork version of the dish by topping the chops with a spoonful of sautéed fresh porcini, morels, and shiitakes.
Reproduced with permission of University of California Press © Evan Goldstein 2010
Daring Pairings by Evan Goldstein is published by University of California Press (Berkeley and LA; 2010; hb 353 pp) and retails for RRP US$34.95 or RRP A$55.95 in Australia.
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